THE
FARNE ISLANDS
The British Galapagos
Most
of us have heard of the Farne Islands, but maybe unaware how easy
it is to visit. The
Farnes are our Galapagos, the birds posing a few feet
away. Ensure
you visit with your camera, and more importantly,
a hat.
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Look
out for the Eider Duck in the harbour, and on the
islands where they wander round in crèches, several
females escorting a vast gathering of chicks. The Eiders were the first birds in the world
to obtain a preservation order.
This was by St Cuthbert in the 7th
Century.
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Britain is famous for its sheer numbers
of seabirds, but here in the Farnes you will get sensational
close-ups, and as a bonus, you are on the historic
Northumbrian coastline, the land of mystery and history,
castles, Holy Island and Lindisfarne. Another recommended visit, is Coquet Island, the only nesting site in
the UK for the rare Roseate Tern;
also, 22,000 Puffins, 250 seals and the island is
just ¼ mile in length! Not bad. To
get to Coquet, take a ‘Puffin Cruise’ from Amble Harbour.
We
occasionally meet someone on a walk or holiday, who
‘gets the bug’. They
are smitten, hooked for life.
Thus it was with Janis, who developed the disease
in Scotland; when we sought shelter from
the elements, there she would be, binoculars fixed
to the eyes. Once you have the bug, there is as yet, no known
cure. Janis
would like us all to visit the Farne Islands and research dictates, there is no acceptable excuse for not going.
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In
summer 2005, I enjoyed a wildlife holiday Aigas Field
Centre near Beauly in Inverness-shire. I was converted
to a love of nature which I am certain will not be
a transient fad. Then,
I was delighted to discover that the Farne Islands lie just of the Northumberland Coast, near to where I live. I had heard that this is one of the most sensational
birding sites in Britain, so paid it a visit. The rugged sea-swept Islands are home to thousands of nesting
sea birds including puffins, guillemots, kittiwakes
and shags. This is a most vivid experience, for anyone
wishing to get close to wild creatures.
The boats leave from Seahouses. The journey to this small resort by road is
straight up the A1 past Alnwick, then just follow
the signs for a 13 miles drive from the turn off,
along the scenic Northumbrian countryside.
You’ll
have a struggle to miss the harbour, and straightaway,
look out for Eider Ducks. There are plenty of booking
agents, all conveniently grouped together, and they
offer a variety of cruises.
You can go out for the day or a half-day but
the principal island for the birds, is Inner Farne.
The best time to go is from May to mid-July
when there are a variety of birds nesting with their
chicks. Ensure
that you travel on a cruise where you can disembark,
although if it’s too rough, the landings are cancelled.
I
will tell you my story of one Sunday, late June 2005.
We arrived late because we’re much too lazy to get
up early and catch the early boat. We arrived at 11.15am and the next boat wasn’t due
to disembark until 12 noon, but Seahouses is generous
in the availability of cafes.
Once
we had set sail for the first ten minutes, there is
nothing much to see, but then you notice birds flying
low. The first
one I noticed was shag and then - - there were puffins. I was so excited at seeing these unique looking
birds, with their short stubby wings, flying back
and forth to their feeding grounds.
As we approached the islands the sounds of
the birds start to reach you, the noise is loud and
harsh, whilst the aroma is not exactly Channel.
We first travelled to Longstone Island, where the captain told us
a little about the Grace Darling and her heroic deeds,
and we then made our way back to the seal population.
We next watched terns and gannets hovering
over the sea and diving, when they would re-appear
with fish or sand eels; it was fascinating to watch
and I was totally captivated.
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Next,
we made our way to Inner Farne, the captain docked
and off we went up the slope.
At this point I need to tell you to bring a
hat and it’s advisable not
to bring your Sunday best.
Once you start up the slope, small heroic arctic
terns start to bombard you. I saw a man with blood on his head, and another
with a gash on his hand where he tried to protect
himself. The tern chicks are right there beside the
path and their mothers try to stop you going any further
by pecking at your legs.
At the same time some birds aim their droppings
at you - - - - charming!
As
you walk around the island you will come to the puffin
colony. This for me was the best part of the trip, watching
the little birds returning with a good ten fish in
their beaks; it’s an amazing sight.
The instant they land they are assailed by
herring and black-headed gulls trying to rob them
of their gains. We all urge the puffins on, as they
try to find sanctuary in their burrows.
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What
was there to do then, but go for a fish-and-chip tea,
to make a pleasant end to a memorable day, in fact,
a memorable lifetime experience. I do urge you all to pay a visit to the Farnes;
easy to get to and lives up to the reputation. You cannot be disappointed.
Janis
Fraser
http://www.northumberland-coast.co.uk/farne_islands.php
http://www.farne-islands.com/boat-trips/index.htm
http://www.northumberland.gov.uk/vg/amble.htm
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